The Museum for Photography

When it became rapidly apparent that I needed a plan B this afternoon, I landed in a wonderful archive of kink, humanity, and psychological insight. 

Operated in conjunction with the Helmut Newton foundation for the last decade, the museum makes an effort to surpass the “isn’t it a pretty picture” gambit to strike a blow for humanity. I don’t mean something as trite as Bono’s sophomoric efforts to feed the world — I mean using photography to build bridges between ourselves and those we may never meet. 

Exhibits like “photos rarely come alone” build bridges by offering thematic series that strengthen empathy through portraiture, abstractions, humor and absurdity. By showing us the decay of the Soviet Union (Boris Mikhailovich) or the simple adoration of a spouse (Louis Stettner), this exhibit asks us to embrace those who seem alone and alienated (Francesca Woodman) and join those who already enjoy a sense of community (Helga Paris). So many of these series made me smile to look at them, though some are nothingness shy of bleak. I think that’s because I saw ever shutter click as a light in the darkness.

Elsewhere, darkness doesn’t contrast so much with light as accent it. A collection of Helmut Newton’s experiments  in sly manipulation of words, layout, and ambiguous, but garish, poised imagery put in focus just how much we take for granted what is news, as opposed to what is theater. As another exhibit in the collection, entitled Helmut Bewton’s Private Property” makes clear, Newton saw theater everywhere and embraced it.

Looking at his models’ faces in candid shots between poses, one could believe that his campy, kinky, and even exploitative brand of theater put them at ease because he was just so in love with life that he doesn’t seem predatory. By the time one has read all the letters, captions, and even some obituaries following his death, one really missed him. It doesn’t seem fair that he’ll never shoot another spread ever again.

The crowning glory of this museum for me, though, has to be the Alice Springs MEP show. Newton’s widow June, working as “Alice Springs,” mirrors the souls of punks, of celebrities, even if her husband with a luminous honesty that is neither cynical nor naively idealistic. 

Some of the kids you see smiling in her pictures probably haven’t smiled for a lot of people, for a lot of reasons. She, like Annie Leibovitz, seems to brush aside the dead wood and show the fundamental people in front of her. That’s rare talent. 

So why’d I never heard of her?

It’s a mystery, but you can bet I’ll search out more of her work. I liked her husband’s stuff too — not done looking for his life’s work, now that I got a concentrated taste of it (rather than bits and pieces over the years).

I’d be remiss if I ceased writing about this museum without alluding to Mart Engelen’s work in the cozy room at the back of the first floor, titled “June’s Room.” Featuring various people of varying fame and consequence, Engelen’s portraits leave the viewer feeling the photographer caught something in conversation that the rest of us missed, and the expressions on the subjects’ faces would make more sense to us if we were privy to that missed comment.

The perfect example of this bemusing lot of prints appears in the portrait of John Waters. He has long been the Cheshire Cat of film, but this ups the ante. I loved Engelen’s work, but I felt left out. Perhaps because I felt he leaves us outside looking in so thoroughly. 

Yes, I actually CAN believe I ate the whole thing

At my best friend’s recommendation, I made my last dinner in Berlin a visit to the Twelve Apostles for pizza. I wasn’t in the least disappointed (not that I ever expected to be). With dough so fresh it punched my ass when it arrived at the table, the pizza titled “Simon” features basil, spicy pepperoni, and sheep’s milk cheese. This pizza was not bland. 

Together with a three quarter liter bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water, I worked my way through this gem until…

Well, until it was gone!  It took some work though — while I was waiting for my pizza, the server brought me a basket of rustic bread and a ramekin of pesto. It would have taken little effort to fill up on the bread and then surrender to the pizza, but I drew a line in the sand and stopped eating until manna descended from heaven to my table. 

I know, I know. This sounds like no small dose of hyperbole, some giddy exaltation of a basic foodstuff you can get anywhere. But this was something special. The basil was fresh; the pepperoni was cured; and that sheep’s milk cheese was sublime in its tanginess, Consistency, and the way it balanced the other ingredients. 

No, I’m not exaggerating about how good this was. You’ll just have to saunter over to Berlin and find out for yourself. 

A postscript, perhaps superfluous, but I don’t agree that gluttony belongs on the list of deadly sins. That’s why, when i passed a gelato place on my way back to the friedrichstrasse S-Bahn stop, I ducked in and got a single, decadent scoop of Belgian chocolate:


Yeah, readers I can hear you now; a chorus of groans rises, echoing the lament, “you’re killing me!”  I reply hey! It’s my arteries that are ossifying as I write this. Good night, and by the way?

You’re welcome. 

The Brohan museum

A museum devoted to Art Nouveau and Art Deco? With a focus on furniture and design? How could I resist? I didn’t. 


Located across the street from Schloss Charlottenburg, The Brohan museum provides sequential and geographic context for the rise of art nouveau and its transformation into Art Deco.


At this juncture, I’ll reveal a dirty, and frankly needlessly stupid, secret: I can’t evaluate curatorial content here because almost all of it was in German, which I never learned. That raises two pertinent questions:

  1. Why’d I go to Germany, if I didn’t know the lingual franca (sic)?
  2. Were there audio guides I could have secured with English narration?

I’ve wandered off topic. What I saw at this small museum filled me with joy. The furniture, the shapes of household items, and advertisements from the 20’s and 30’s coalesce in a vision of a future in which archduke Ferdinand’s death didn’t decimate Europe and madmen didn’t unleash racist genocide on the world.


Never mind that much of the furniture from those bygone years proved to be uncomfortable; never mind that the Bauhaus school gave use visions of a more streamlined aesthetic. And never mind that ideologically there was some overlap between some strains of art nouveau and early fascists. 


Well, I guess I can’t have it both ways, can I? If I suggest the utopian futures intrinsic to art nouveau preclude fascism, it’s not fair to link them. Oops.


The problem here is that I rely so heavily on the verbal content of a museum’s curatorial direction, and if I can’t read the labels, the objects look like pretty baubles from a century ago. Consequently, my editorial content seems hollow. That’s why I filled this post with many photos.


I will append to this a comment on the temporary exhibit on the fourth floor. Celebrating the posters promoting the Jazz fest that Nicholas Troxley started in Switzerland, this exhibit did have English text, as well. Emphasizing the broad span of influences that Troxley reflects in his art work, the exhibit went to great lengths to show all of them and how his posters have changed the most. 


With gleeful anarchy, Cubism, fauvism, and abstract expressionism all raise their hands and wave in the forty years of troxley’s posters.  It is a glorious riot of style and exuberance, worth the price of the museum admission as a whole. 

A slower, easier day

This morning, I took my sweet time getting a move on, and consequently came THIS close to missing breakfast. When I eventually got going, I made it over to my home away from home, the Ostkreuz S-Bahn stop and made my way to the zoological gardens stop, where j transferred to the U-bahn and rode the U2 line to Schlossstrase. From there, it’s a short walk to the Brohan museum. 


More about that in a post of its own. 

When I made it back to the zoo station, I headed towards the Zoo, but it started raining and I was hungry. As it happens, there seemed to be a street fair in front of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church across the street from the u-bahn stop. 


One bratwurst later, I resumed my stroll toward the zoo, before i realized that even if the sun reappeared (and it did), the zoo closed at 1700 hours and I had about an hour until then. The cardinal rule of travel is be prelared to adapt.

I turned and followed the signs to the museum for photography. This proved to be the perfect solution because that place, in conjunction with the Helmet Newton Foundation,  stages wonderful exhibitions, which I’ll detail shortly.